Well I just finished this repair on my 02 SVTF. While it was not fun, it was not nearly as difficult as some people lead me to believe. I thought that it might be good to have a list of tips and tricks that I used for others in case anyone wants to attempt this repair.
(1). I started by removing my airbox and intake tube (I left the MAFS alone)
(2). Then I unclipped the fuse box from the fire wall and pulled it towards the front of the car to let me access the clutch hydralic lines.
(3). Move to the inside of the vehicle and remove the clutch pedal position sensor and the clutch interlock sensor.
(4). Unbolt the master cylinder from the pedal assembly bracket, a metric sized GearWrench will greatly speed up this process.
(5). Once the master cylinder was unbolted from the pedal assembly bracket I loosen the entire pedal assembly bracket, there are four nuts that need to be loosened and a looong extension will allow access to the top two.
(6). With the bracket loosened I moved back to the engine compartment and unbolted the junction block (where the lines pass through the fire walll), then I removed the clips that hold the hydralic lines in place.
(Tip!!) Here is a little trick to help stop fluid loss from the resevior, I pulled the rubber cap off of the clutch bleeder screw and put it on the line that runs from the resevior to the master cylinder.
(7). I found that it was easier to push the master cylinder back into the car as I removed the lower clutch line.
(Tip!!) Here is the second tip that I learned, make sure that you put the lower line back into the master cylinder before you bolt the master cylinder to anything.
(8). Reinstall in reverse order and have a friend help bleed the system.
All in all it took me about 1.5 hours to complete the repair, and I think that it is well within an average mechanics abilities, no special tools required.